Wondrous wave days …….

 

A great midday session

A great midday session

 

Yes .. The swell showed up  .. and yes .. i held my place among the men .. and yes .. i caught set waves .. and yes .. i got respect from the men on the cliff face .. and yes .. i am fully alive and free on the face of a wave …………….. yes .. wondrous days …… wondrous ……….

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