Friendships …

Captain Barry Wilkerson

Barry, my life-long friend Val’s husband, told me that he has the best friends of his entire lifetime in Loreto.

I thought long and hard about what he had said, and why it was in fact, true.  I think it’s because like personalities are drawn to the area for similar reasons.

In fact, it was friendship that drew me to Loreto in the first place.  Val and Barry had finished building their new home and Val invited the ‘girls’ to come down for a long weekend.  It only took 4 days – I had never been in Loreto before – but I fell in love with the charm of the town and the warmth and caring of the residents.

Fishing is one of the great draws.  In fact, anything that has to do with the bounty of the Sea of Cortez serves as a backdrop for gathering friends.

Val as a Sea Bird

Scuba diving, snorkeling, island hopping, swimming, sailing, paddle boarding, kayaking … All related to the beauty and wealth of this pristine sea.

And on a second note, the majority of the “gringos” in Loreto are retired, so the tension and rat maze of making a living have fallen off the radar.  Life is easier, choices are simpler.  A game of afternoon cards?  Why not?  Spanish lessons three times a week? Good idea.  Help you paint that wall?  Sure, come on over.

Neighbors are special.  Everyone looks out for everyone else, and when there is a need, everyone rushes in to help.  Yes.. friendships based on choices surrounding the desert and the sea and the activities that they provide.  Common ground that draws us together.

james Seixas Surfs San Juanico


During my ‘second’ surfing session in San Juanico in 2009, I had the pleasure of meeting James Seixas who has another ‘home’ in San Pedro.  He was kind, encouraging .. and a whole lot of fun in the water.  I was able to catch a few stills of him at second point, and have turned them into this short kind of funky video.

The ‘other’ side … and Picazone memories …

Coronado Island Just Offshore

This morning, I found myself back in the United States.  It’s then that Baja Dreaming really takes on meaning.  For starters, the temperature was a full 30° colder than the climate I left behind.  The chill in the air seemed almost biting, but for those who have continuity, it was short and t-shirt weather, while I’m wrapped in jeans and a sweater.

I’d spent my last lunch back at Picazone, the remarkable seaside eatery of Alexandro and Imelda Igartua.  On the far outskirts of Loreto, down a dusty dirt road, when one arrives at the open gate and pulls inside, the world changes.  An oasis of palms and local cactus ring a path toward the oversized palapa outdoor dining area.  Large cushioned couches beckon a lazy afternoon, along with appropriately placed hammocks.  And if the creative palate of colors on the walls and the tasteful decorations, there is always the sea, just beyond the palm fringes, beckoning with turquoise and cerulean blues.

Cozy Couches

A large modern kitchen seems almost out of place in this distant outpost.  Sparkling clean and open with a long bar, the always present Imelda greets each visitor as if they were a long lost friend.  This particular trip, son Alex was home from college for a few weeks – with only five days remaining in his vacation!  This time, it was Alex and his dad in the kitchen, as plans and seeds were being laid for a “Picazone ala Guadalara” some time in the future.  With so many cousins and family members in that mainland city, it only makes sense to expand the business.

Carol Boyd – who with husband Lee owns the wonderful Mediterraneo Restaurant in Loreot – and I picked a spot near the water.  Around us, orange, green and yellow clothes covered oversized round tables.  Chips and a variety of chilis, salsas and a special mayonnaise were delivered by Imelda – the perfect hostess.  Drink and food orders were taken, and Carol and I sat down to chat about anything BUT world politics.

Candlelight Romance

Lunch : we both had Tacones – flour tortilla wraps of unimaginable flavors.  This day – 1/2 smoked marlin, the other 1/2 parrot fish.  Divine – and devoured.

With all the guest served, Alejandro and Alex were engage in a furious game of Backgammon.  Carol volunteered another version – Acey Ducey – and then it was Alejandro and Carol, all dice rolling and chip moving.

What a fun lunch – and another great day .. on the other side .. about which, I am dreaming.

Pizza and Good Friends

Catharine Cooper & Patrick Humphrey

Catharine & Patrick walking home after (and with) pizza.

One of the treats in San Juanico is the Friday/Saturday night dinners at Dan Alacran Pizza.  The food is great, and the proprietors – Dan & Jackie – make the place almost feel like home.  In such a small community, it kind of is like eating with your family & friends.  And the possibility is great, that if you didn’t know someone when you came in, you will know them when you leave.  Such was the case a year ago when I met/got to know Cynthia Wagstaff, who is now one of my best friends.

Cathy, Pat & I were definitely ready for a shift from fish tacos.  After a fun day of surf and hanging out at the beach, a pizza and cold beer were on the agenda.  We watched surf videos – a staple of the pizza house –  always hopeful to catch a shot of ourselves (ha ha) in amongst the hot doggers with fabulous rides from second point all the way to first.  Perfect SJ friendships.

After dinner, we walked the short dusty street back to Cynthia’s house for ‘movie date.’   Another great end to a great day!

Ahhh .. which way do these things go?

Which way do these things go?

One of my all time great DUH moments .. Caught in the midst of fin attachment when my friends looked over at me and start laughing uncontrollably.

I look down and yep – fins are all snug in their boxes – backwards!  No counting for Mexican brain – and I don’t think I’d had even one cold cerveza yet!

Wonder what this might do to nose/tail riding?  Should I take off with the board backwards????

With the kind guidance of my friends, the fins were ‘righted’, the board freshly waxed, and great fun was had on San Juancio’s amazing wave machine.

Warm warm water!  Surfed in a bikini for the first time since last summer.   Just how good can it get?????  Oh yes .. days on end better 🙂

2 days and counting …..

Sunrise in Loreto

Countdown to Friday departure as the Baja Peninusla lures me south once again.  This trip, I’ll again have the joy experiencing the extraordinary and diversified beauty of the long finger of desert, rock and mountainous terrain.  If you’ve never done the drive, then you don’t really know Baja.

Cathy and Patrick are packing their respective bags.  This will be Cathy’s first road trip, and I’m excited for her to experience the open spaces.  We’re still jockeying between one or two cars .. but in any event, the clock is ticking and soon the open road will be under our wheels.

Plan is first night at El Jardin, the most serene motel tucked off the road just north of San Quintin.  The gardens surrounding the motel are amazing – even a small grove of orange trees fills out the back.  Early Saturday, we’ll book it for Loreto, checking into “Casa de Catalina” for a day’s road rest.  Supplies will be gathered and a joy trip to the Tiligues (Sunday open air market) to fill out the fresh veggie/fruit part of our food group.  Either late Sunday, or early Monday – depending on surf and social life conditions 🙂  – we’ll make the drive to San Juanico, surfboards and suntan lotion loaded on the Explorer.

The last two days have been registration, insurance – and the procurment of a sentri transponder for my car – the second in the ‘fleet’ – for easier crossing back into the United States.  It’s part of the Trusted Traveler Program of Homeland Security and it’s nice to be a vetted American.

Promises to self this trip : Stop for more photographs. Take time to sketch and to paint. Surf ’til you drop!

Party On!

Oh Grand Birthday Party .. Thank you everyone – esp. Cynthia & Cal