Morning Notes

Skies blue, sun rising and the temperatures again warm.  My turns to shorts and t-shirts.  Second cup of coffee.

Buster sits on the beach with Shorty and Diego howling at the pelicans that float just beyond an easy reach.

The birds twitter bouncing tree to tree.  It feels like springtime, but it’s only the 4th day of February.

Dinner last night at 1697, Norma and Kirnin’s wonderful restaurant on the plaza.  We drank red wine with Alexander Ogilvie, our friend and owner of Loreto Realty.  Pizza and pasta.  Warm tables close together against the evening chill.  Dee Wise comes in for dinner.  I haven’t had the chance to spend any time with her.

Why am I never here long enough?

Arrival in Loreto

Betsy & Cathy under the palapa

Betsy & Cathy under the palapa

LAX to Loreto.  Straight shot.

We leave the craziness of Los Angeles/Orange County and our fast paced lives, and settle down.  Betsy and Cathy sit on lounge chairs and sip hot coffee.  The skies are steamy, aka Maxwell Parish.  The humidity slides over our skin like the soft spray of a shower..

Cathy & Betsy enjoy the morning.

Cathy & Betsy enjoy the morning.

I sit in my corner, my morning place and key the words that ground me.  For the moment, I am home.  I’ve left the financial and emotional challenges that have dogged me for months far behind.  This trip is about adventure.  About being/getting away.  About finding waves (if there are any).  And about spending time with good friends.

We make lists of things we need for the Pacific side.  We  move slowly. There is no hurry.  It’ss just us and a long drive to a place the girls have never been .

Last night, we defrosted the black beans I froze last trip and salmon.  I cooked rice and squash.  Girl food.

Watched ‘Riding Giants’ as if to prime ourselves .. fell alseep during the waves ……

Girl’s Trip!

Look out!  Girls be coming!  Cathy and Betsy Meehan are joining me on a southward journey August 23rd.  Plan is for two days in Loreto playing and provisioning .. then over to the Pacific for some fun in the sun surfing … Before back to Loreto for eating/drinking/shoppping and yep, probably fishing!

Girl power .. and what fun it is!

Never a bad day ..

Daybreak by the SeaThere’s never a bad day by the Sea of Cortez.  There might be challenges, but between the morning sunrise behind Isla Carmen and the drifting pink clouds to the sunsets in the west, the constancy of the water both soothes and heals my entire being.

Pelicans drift mere fractions of an inch from the edge of the water.

The neighborhood osprey swoops through searching for prey.

Arctic and royal terns, down from the icy flows of Alaska join the cormorants, gulls and boobies in the shallow frenzy for sardines and other bait fish.

Off shore, whales, dolphins and rays entertain with dives, rolls and flops.  The sea is alive with fish – grouper, dorado, sailfish, yellowtail, bluefin, bonita, and marlin.

The synergy between the sea and the land is subtle, yet integral. Nutrients washed through summer storms feed the ecosystem, while the sea keeps the coastline a subtle notch cooler.

Mornings begin for me with hot coffee, journaling and then a long walk on the beach or a paddle/swim in the sea.  The constancy .. the ability to trust that it will always be there.

Hot & Humid

Hot & Humid

Hot & Humid

It is HOT and HUMID .. Weather preditions are for 98° with a heat index of 105°   Perspiration drips down my neck and cheeks, but there is nothing better than being here – next to the sea.  The sky sits on the water as if they are two and the same element.  No wind.  No motion.  Grey and blue grey and grey blue.  Monochromatic …

July next to the Sea

Hot hot and humid!  Water is mid-80s.  Air is 90s and up.  Folks hunker down under palapas and in rooms chilled with A/C.  My dogs melt like puddles in burrows dug in the sand.  Not looking for China with their digging – just a cool spot.

Good friends Val & Barry won the ‘other fish’ category of the Fishin’ for the Mission tournament held this last week.  They caught a 58.6 lb yellowfin tuna!  Sashimi for all! (and I heard, a hunk of canning).

Arrived in the new terminal at Loreto.  Quite the change with its lovely arched roof and everything new.  The A/C is greatly appreciated by both staff and travelers.  I hear that when I leave, I still have to go to the old terminal to have my bags xrayed – then back to the new terminal for departure.  Only in Mexico, right?  But that’s part of what I love about this place.  It matches my ‘make it up as you go’ philosophy.

Settling down for a quiet day with books and writing.  La Paz beckons with possible web work … and San Juanico for some time with friend Cynthia and some surf.

The magic of Mexico.

Not Just Another Blonde Dog

Blondie chasing birds!

Blondie chasing birds!

“Not Just a Blonde Dog”

I didn’t set out to find a dog. They all found me.

Two came with the house I bought in Mexico.  Another wandered in a few weeks later.

And then there were the two straggly mutts that had made ‘camp’ on the porch of the empty house across the street.  They were small dogs, about the size of miniature poodles, with long matted hair.  One was dark to light grey,  the other a dirty blonde.

For the first few days, I kept chasing them back to the porch.  The three other dogs were already eating through large bags of kibble and I was still learning to navigate bark-bark instead of meow (I’d been a cat person my entire life).

When the blonde showed up one afternoon with bird feet hanging out of her mouth, I was hooked.  Anyone little dog hungry enough to catch flying food was cunning enough to win me over.  Her grey partner trailed in behind her.

But ugh.  Such dirty tangled messes.  Steve and I got out shampoo, the hose and scissors and whacked away at the knots that bound their legs and shoulders.  Soon, they were oddly trimmed with some gapping fur holes, but bouncier and lighter – and definitely cleaner – for the ordeal.  Steve immediately named them Blondie and Buster, and two good friends entered our lives.

The story’s been told, but again I’ll mention that Steve believed that both dogs were fixed.  When vioila, our neighbor, Jeanne, found Blondie and Buster happily ‘at it’, and soon there-after the Blonde became a kind of football shape, his lessons in anatomy proved to be sorely lacking.  On schedule and in Jeanne’s back yard (we were in the States), Blondie gave birth to six puppies.  Five lived through the night and into full rough and tough, growl and pounce, rip and shred puppydom.

We found homes for all of them.  Three were going to the States and two were staying with families in Mexico.  Which was perfect, until Buster went chasing after a car – and the car won.  Sadly, I buried him in the vacant lot next to some of his predecessors.  Even with partial adoption, beach living can be a hard life.

His death sealed the deal on a puppy for us, and Buster Jr. became the ‘go-dog’ traveling north to the states and back south to Loreto.  He is the light of my life, and a smile maker for all those who meet him.

A few weeks after he’d moved north, Steve became worried about the Blonde.  Even though she still had her big dog friends, was fed regularly, and hung out with Jeanne, she was a little girl dog who was kind of on her own.  Steve decided she should also move to Laguna.

Friend Alexander said that she died and went to wood floors.  Blondie flourished here in ways I had never expected.  At first, she had no idea at all what to do with a toy.  It was only in recent weeks that she finally figured out to grab the other end of her son’s stuffed animal and pull back.  She wasn’t quite ready to chase a ball, but she loved it when Buster did.  She’d jump on his back and ride around while he rolled it from room to room.  Blondie adjusted well to leash walks and even had a personal groomer at Animal Crackers.  In fact, Blondies’ picture graced this newspaper two weeks ago, in an article about the rescue efforts of Gina and her shop.

Her heart, though, was always on the shores of Loreto.  Blondie continued to be an avid hunter – both of land birds and those of the sea.  More than once I had swum after her when she had pinned a small grebe in her sights and could not be dissuaded from pursuing it.  Once, she had swum so far – nearly a mile – that I could hardly see her.  Terrified that she would drown, I tossed off shoes and shorts and swam to grab my precious golden bundle.  When I reached her she kind of looked at me like – Hey?  Where are we anyway? Then settled on top of my chest while I backstroked back to shore.  She would run and jump down the long pebbly beaches, always the first at the door for her daily walk.

Last week, I was in the process of installing wires across the fence to keep the dogs in the yard and prevent them from chasing cars – something I think, that must be in their genes.  The back gates were finished and we were just about to start on the front.  I heard the other dogs bark.  The screen was open and I yelled at Steve to grab Blondie.  She streaked past me a white ball of racing fur.  I screamed “Blondie!” and the driver of the police car patrolling the beachfront looked straight at me.  She was all bark-bark-bark, then thump.  Then no bark.  Her little body lay in a crumpled heap not more than 5’ from where her husband had died.

I bured her next to Buster Sr. under the tree in the vacant lot and the watchful eye of St. Francis’ statue.  She died where she had started, doing what she loved.  Running free.

Blondie was a princess and a Bajanese.

Catharine Cooper is dog mom to Buster – and half-mom to Shorty, Diego and Ruby.  She can be reached at cooper@catharinecooper.com