Category Archives: Sunrises

the sound of morning

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Sunrise : Loreto

I woke before the sun had peeked her head above isla carmen and decided to walk the beach in it’s pre-dawn darkness.  In the distance, the wail of waking roosters echoed down the arroyo and mingled with the guttural purr of diesel transports getting a jump on the day.

At the water line, only the sound of small waves slapping on and moving beach stones broke the zen-like silence.  Morning – before morning – exquisite.

The shadowy shapes of foraging shorebirds began to appear, thankful, as was I, that the winds of yesterday had momentarily waned, and the sea was once again a lake like mirror of glass.

The palms were still.  The residences of Loreto, for the most part, still ‘snug in their beds.’

When the sun finally crested the horizon, it was as if the sky cried out – “I’m here! I’m here!”  – welcoming with broad arms the beginnings of a new day.

To wake with such exquisite peace seems to me – the ultimate luxury.

Rembrandt Skies

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Rembrandt Skies

Rembrandt Skies

The rain was more than I could have asked for. Dark ominous skies for two days – and then the drops, light as first and then a heavy downpour that came in spurts, but lasted through the night. In the morning skies that painters dream about.

The rains in the night cleared the air (not that it needed to be cleared) and in the morning, the fragrance of the desert freshly gifted was water was hypnotic – better than any perfume imagined.

We wait now – for the green cover that follows desert rains. The brown and seemingly barren desert will burst into a carpet of plant life that sprouts in celebratory response to moisture.

As for the skies … clouds dissipate and mornings revert to placid seas and clear dawn explosions of darkness to dawn.

Omage to the daybreak …

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Sunrise : Loreto : 102111

Sunrise : Loreto : 102111

Flap of pelican wings. Graceful dive of Arctic tern. Splash and leap of tiny fish. Wind rustling palm trees. The chatter of house finches. The coo of rock doves. The squawk of sea gulls.

The islands floating in the not quite break of day. The Sea of Cortez in stillness.

Buster, patiently waiting for his walk. My coffee, hot and a writing companion.

Neighbor, Chris, fishing on the shoreline. Neighbor, Mary, early walking the beach with her dog, Riley. Neighbor, Mark, sweeping his patio. Dogs at the door for morning treats.

Last night, the horses – five of them – on an unsupervised beach walk. Or did the bell on the lead horse signify a chain of command?

So much life to recognize each day.  Such gratitude.

… too much time in baja! ….

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(coming round again)

You my have spent too much time in Baja if:

You open the refrigerator and are stunned it’s not filled with Coronas.

You can’t drink anything unless it has a slice of lime.

It’s not a meal without salsa fresca and chips.

You greet everyone with “Hola” or “Buenas Dias”.

You keep trying to throw your toilet paper in the wastebasket.

There are too many paved roads in your neighborhood.

You go out to check the pila, but it’s not there.

The electricity stays on for days without an outage.

You suddenly understand your gardener and your maid.

You step outside to swim, and all you find is your lawn.

Your neighbors’ dogs are all on leashes and snarl instead of licking you.

There’s nobody riding in the back of pick-up trucks.

The phone interrupts your siesta hours.

You try to bargain with the butcher.

Your feet no longer fit in hard soled shoes.

You’ve forgotten how to wear a necktie.

You’re surprised to find all your groceries at one store.

You don’t need to make an ice run for the drink cooler.

Shrimp, shrimp, shrimp.  Is there any other food?

One hardware store carries everything.

You think nothing of driving the length Mex 1 in a day.

Your trips are measured by distance between gas stations.

Doritos are a poor substitute for the real thing.

Baja Rummy is actually a game.

A traffic jam means there are three cars stopped in front of you.

Your electric bill comes in the mail, instead of being stuffed in the fence.

You actually have a water meter.

You wake for sunrise because it is breathtakingly beautiful.

Dorado is both a fish and a style of taco shell.

Golf carts are used everywhere except on a course.

You start jonesing for fresh tortillas.

The guy who fixes your electric, also does your plumbing, builds your fence, plants your trees, looks after your house, and feeds your dogs when you are away.

No one has a doorbell and everybody stops by.

A palapa, a panga, and a hammock are three of your favorite places to be.

Your friends ask you when you’re coming home and you wonder if they’re crazy.

… morning comes again …

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... loreto dawn – 26 july 2011 ...

I inhale the steamy morning air, listen as ripples splash against the beach stones … coffee in-hand, the sun slithers up behind the clouds and once again, the day begins.

The pure elegance and simplicity of the dawn do little to assuage the raging that fills the United States over a budget crisis that no on seems to understand or have grip on. Everyone pontificates, shores up their positions … protects their own private interests.

But forgive me .. no, don’t. This comes on the heels of several decades of ‘greed-building’ .. where the dollar (euro/whatever) has become more important than anything else. We are surely in trouble ……………

Away too long …

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Early Morning Light

I’ve been out of Baja for over a month, and there’s a nagging need to find my way home. Tacos de pescado, arroz con salsa .. possible una cervaza – o dos.

Stateside for work, which is bountiful, and for which I am extremely grateful – but the press of the City takes its toll. Sooo many cars, too much traffic. Everyone is in a wild hurry to get ‘there’ .. and I think, rarely appreciates where they actually ‘are.’

“Things” matter a lot here : clothes, cars, trends, electronics. Without even pondering, I find myself drawn back into the fold. “I need” … a long list manifests. But do I? What do any of us really need to live on? And does any of the stuff with which we overload our lives make us happy?

In Mexico, I ‘lean’ it back, live with less ..spend more time expressing my creative talents to manifest a this or a that.

And then there is the water. Warming and warmer. The color of the sky mixed with turquoise. A salinity in the Sea of Cortez that is higher/different than that in the states. Uncrowded … a morning paddle of many miles surrounded only by the sea, the edge of mountains, the off shore islands and a dolphin or two. The way the water wraps herself around my skin… the way I am able to merge with her beauty.

Yes .. past time to head south again ….

Morning Birthday Gifts

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Loreto Sunrise

Quiet seas and shimmering dawn. Early morning osprey calls. The whiz of hummingbird wings next to my face. The splash of hungry pelican. A brisk walk to a thought provoking seminar by Mark Spalding the Ocean Foundation on environmental governance, part of the three-day Simposio de Ciencia de la Conservación en Loreto (Conservation Science Symposium). A vulture parked atop a palapa waiting for???

A seven mile SUP on glassy blue green seas filled with fleets of small yellowtail, puffer fish, sulking rays, fat faced puffer fish …. and … a sea turtle! First time paddling I’ve had that kind of up/close encounter. Cormorants and gulls. Lots of wonderful messages from friends all over the world.

Now, to hop a flight back to the states just in time for dinner with my mother, Kay Wright. It just happens to be her birthday, too! Happy Birthday, Mom ….

Day Two 2011

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Will I ever tire of the sunrise?

Sometimes I think, “enough.”  But no, I  grab the camera, capture the light.  There is always something different.  Clouds shifted, glassy seas or wind swept, the sky a range of color fields.

In the stillness, the air gathers in on itself and slowly exhales in rhythm with the sea.  It is a song that musicians cannote capture, no matter the longing.

The gathering of seabirds, in search of their first meal.  The flap of wings, the throaty call of the heron, the high pitched whistle of the tern.  The splash of fish, slap of wave, rustle of palm branches.

In the distance, a rooster reminds his brood that it is once again day.  Dogs echo and their woofs and howls call to one another, an ancient language replayed in the debut of another dawn.