Christmas at Picazone

Christmas Day, 2010, Loreto, BCS.

Dawned with north east breezes, clear skies and crisp temperatures.  Shared hot coffee and Christmas cookies with Jeff Kahan who had stopped for a couple of days on his journey south to La Ventana.  We took a long beach walk and let the fresh sea air waken us into the sacred holiday before he took off to meet his friends.

First on my agenda was a Buster bath!  Oatmeal soappy and fresh and soft dog fur.  I combed/brushed/cut out sand knots and ended with a blow dryer that left him looking like a show dog! Then, the jingle bell collar went on and he was ready for our outing.

The evening meal had been arranged by Jill Jackson for a private Picazone feast. What a treat! 3o or so family and friends who trekked to the far point on the water overlooking Coronado Island.

We gathered on the couches, sipped cocktails and wine and stories of Christmas past, fishing (there is always a fishing story or two in Mexico), travels, and adventures. We all reflected on how lucky we felt to be in such a special location under the kind and watchful care of Alejandro, Imelda, Alex Jr., and Diego.  They have carved a magical space out of small chunk of seaside desert with their tony restaurant, Picazone.  I would have to say it is a must see/do in any Loreto vacation planning.

Prior to dinner, Rick Jackson had set up his camera on the beach and was doing spontaneous Christmas portraits.  Buster, all fluffy fur, demanded that we have our picture taken.

With a first course of onion soup, the stage was set .. along with the dramatic backdrop of sky colors shifting from blues to sunset hues.  I helped light the beautiful bank of drip candles atop spent wine bottles.  Alejandro eventually used one for each table, the soft light spilling across the colorful clothes and warmly lighting the faces of friends.  Gravy laden turkey plates arrived next .. each with a side wondrous cheese potatoes.   Is there a word for ‘happy mouth’?  My tastebuds were pleased, my heart filled with the warmth of friendship that continues to spread and build in this small community.  Such luck.. such wonder.  Such a special Christmas day.

after the longest night

the sun crested the isla carmen one minute earlier this morning : 7:14 instead of 7:15 .. yes, the shortest day and longest night have passed … there must be a metaphor in this.

the air is still and warm. no waves and hardly a ripple on the water. i find this magical, as i continue to drink in living in such close proximity to the water .. a constant that defies my emotional ups and downs, the comings and goings of friends, the wild off-road racer revving his engine somewhere in the distance, the cock-a-doodle do, and the grazing of cattle on the flowers and trees in my garden. i wish i could craft a plan – to do something more to protect her, to nourish her .. as i write that, i remind myself to listen .. that the messages are always present, it’s merely plucking one or the other from the chorus ..

a pelican dives for fish. his splash is another of the sounds that burn into my memory bank. yesterday hundreds of blue-footed boobies diving in formation like fighter planes .. my joy expands ..

Winter Solstice


Winter Solstice Full Moon Eclipse, 21 December 2010

Winter solstice … the shortest day of the year .. and the longest night .. began with a total eclipse of the moon. The simultaneity of events has happened on only one winter solstice since the year 1 (that’s a very long long time ago) in 1638. The next occurrence is more than 200 years in the future. I’ll leave notes for my great-great-great-great grandchildren 🙂

I was lucky enough to be in clear sky perfect location for the event. The evening was cool, a Baja winter setting in for late December. I laid on the beach and watched the moon shift form brilliant white in a black sky to a rusty red color, all the craters and meteor impacts revealed in a softer palette. The black sky opened to star fields that surrounded the red orb, and shooting stars carried trails of shimmering crimson and gold that seemed to linger like spent fireworks.

I could say .. ahhhhhhh .. a few hundred times, and not nearly express the full impact of the evening.

Wings & Wonder

The sky ablaze this morning with 60 or so vultures, circling, searching. What has died? What is about to die? Joining the fray, a Magnificent frigate bird, his long lanky body with split tail stark against the chunky vulture bodies. As they continued to swirl, a lone red tail hawk joined the sky born dance. Similar in size, in their silhouette against the sun, he was almost hidden, except for a distinctive wing formation and different soaring/flapping pattern. Soon, more vultures, another frigate bird and the sky was bird bird bird … and then gone. Whatever they had hoped for or sensed, had scurried deep into the stark desert landscape, and the winged ones dispersed.

Egret in the shallows

Yesterday on our early dog walk, one of the ‘resident’ egrets fished the estuarian inlet near the house.  While the dogs played, I sat on the side of the water watching the tall white bird hunt for tiny fish trapped by the tidal flow.

In the desert it seems, it is bird life that is most obvious.  Their appearances at all times of the day and weather remind me of the mysteries of life, the magic of flight .. the dreams of Icarus.

Moon & the Milky Way

The moon races past quarter toward half.  It’s light begins to occlude the Milky Way, but the brighter stars still shimmer in the darkened sky.  Buster and I walk the ‘hood’ and listen to horses whinnying in the distance, mingled with a few car noises on distant Mex 1.  The quiet is decidedly soothing … a smile turns up the corners of my lips and I thank my friends for all their support and help to get me here.

Before I headed south, I had counted the days left in my Laguna home by the phases of the moon .. How many full?  How many new moons?  Now, the count moves in the other direction.  The mind begins to settle.  The heart begins to find its own rhythm.

Buster learns to SUP (minus the P)

Talk about a water dog!  I think sometimes that Buster must be part Spaniel.  It’s now to the point, I can’t take the SUP board near the water without him climbing on board.

These pictures were shot at Coronado Island, where friend Alex had taken us for an afternoon of picnic and water play.  I packed sandwiches .. and between paddles, we ate, drank some beers and just enjoyed being alive amid turquoise waters and friendship.

While paddling the dark lava rocks that ring the island’s shore, Buster and I encountered schools of Cortez Angelfish that numbered in the  hundreds.  Their dark black bodies with white and orange stripes presented a bold contrast to the amazing blue of their watery world.  A stellar day .. or is that a good sea of a day …

Sunset Paddle

Sunset paddle with Buster on the bow of sit-on kayak.  Sky a soft palette of pale pinks and corals with a hint of light violet.  Wind driven waves of about a foot bounced the boat around. We drifted near a gathering of pelicans and gulls, listening to their ‘conversations’ over the splash of crested water.  Overhead, terns and boobies called to one another and dove for small fish meals.

The sea began to wear the colors of the sky.  Bird songs blended with water songs.  Oh glorious end of day .. oh magical way to live.

Sanctity of the Seas

Tuna Boats : Maria Veronica & her sister ships

Off shore, three tuna boats have sat at anchor for the last four days.  At first, I had been told that they were National Geographic research ships and I was thrilled that they had stopped in Loreto.  When I discovered that they were anything but research ships, my heart felt a deep sadness.

Perched on top of each vessel is a helicopter which is used to spot schools of tuna.  What chance does a tuna have against a helicopter?   Oft times, dolphin swim in the same schools, and become innocent prey in the fishing fleets nets.  While the local seas are all part of Loreto National Marine Park, and commercial fishing is prohibited, the necessary enforcement is all but non-existent.  The boat captains know all to well that there is nearly no one to stop them, and so our seas suffer.  Local fisherman complain that both quanitity and size of all local catch has diminished in the last decade.  It is these long lingers that are mostly to blame.

I scanned the hulls of the ships looking for a name.  The largest of the three is Maria Veronica.  A quick Google and I pulled up more distressing information.  A posting in 1995 about the vessel and her tactics made me furious to see her sitting with her sister ships in our waters.

Here’s what the poster said:

Tuna Meltdown :
On November 9, 1995, I was aboard the dive boat Don Jose. We were anchored on El Bajo seamount, a dive site in Mexico’s Sea of Cortez renowned for an abundance of marine life, including schools of hammerhead sharks. Small groups of divers were going out in skiffs to drift dive over the seamount. Between dives I saw pods of dolphins and noticed a small helicopter circling the area. Shortly after that the tuna ship Maria Veronica arrived.

In a matter of minutes, without any warning whatsoever, the tuna boat and its tender dropped a net directly across the bow of the Don Jose.  Within moments, the tuna net encircled the entire seamount. Inside the circle of net was one of our skiffs with four divers aboard. If these divers had been in the water, they surely would have been killed.

The Don Jose’s captain quickly cut our anchor, which had become entangled in the tuna net. As we left the area, we watched the Maria Veronica cut its net and ditch its equipment. Our captain radioed the Maria Veronica for an explanation. We were told that the spotter helicopter saw the pods of dolphins and a large dark area under the Don Jose and concluded that the seamount was a large school of tuna. Furthermore, they said that they were unaware of the seamount’s existence because it was not identified on any of their maps; they were also unaware that we were anchored and that we were diving, since no dive flag was flown. While it is true the Don Jose was not flying a dive flag, it’s difficult to believe they could not tell we were anchored and that divers were in the area, as their spotter helicopter had made several passes close to our ship and the skiffs containing divers.

The following day we returned to El Bajo. As I made drift dives over the seamount, I was sickened by what I saw — tuna net caught on most of the north mount, chains and steel cables on the main seamount. Worst of all, the entire south seamount was completely covered with tuna net. Caught in and under the net were many, many fish. The marine ecosystem had been severely traumatized and will undoubtedly suffer permanent damage.

It seems apparent that the Maria Veronica should be held accountable for its actions and responsible for removing its nets and equipment from the damaged seamount. In addition, the Mexican government needs to take stringent action to protect its natural resources and its tourists by establishing and mapping marine sanctuaries in the Sea of Cortez and initiating a mooring system at El Bajo and other popular dive sites such as Los Islotes, Las Animas, and San Diego Reef.

Deanna and Dave Hotchner Mt. Prospect, Illinois

Baja Expeditions and another local dive operator helped organize a massive cleanup to remove the nets, cables, and debris from the seamounts. They were helped by an arriving dive group. The Mexican government reacted quickly; it fined the Maria Veronica $50,000 and agreed to a Baja Expeditions request to fund a study on creating a protected area.

An aside:  The El Bajo seamount is one of only 3 places in the world where hundreds of hammerhead sharks congregate.

Also referred to as “shoal, or bank, of the Holy Spirit” in Spanish. It is a submarine ridge that, in less than 2 kilometers, rises steeply from a 1,000-meter basin to within 18 meters of the surface.

It supports rich stocks of pelagic fishes because of an abundance of plankton that attracts consumers. The plankton (and the rest of the food web) is enriched due to the so-called “Venturi effect,” which describes how flow speed increases when a fluid is forced through a narrow area. The same volume of water carrying a given number of plankters must flow through the more constricted space between the seamount and the ocean surface, providing more drifting prey over time for predator fish lurking near the peak.

from Steinbeck’s Log

sunrise : isla carmen : sea of cortez

“One thing had impressed us deeply on this little voyage: the great world dropped away very quickly.  We lost the fear and fierceness and contagion of war and economic uncertainty.  The matters of great importance we had left were not important.  There must be an infective quality in these things.  We had lost the virus, or it had been eaten by the anti-bodies of quiet.  Our pace had slowed greatly; the hundred thousand small reactions of our daily world were reduced to very few.”

– John Steinbeck, The Log from the Sea of Cortez