Thanksgiving – 2008

Loreto_ThanksgivingBack in Loreto .. After wild drive down.  Work held us in the states until Thanksgiving morning.  We packed the car the night before, so we were all go.  Only the going was SLOW!  Pouring rain to the border and beyond.

Got pulled over at crossing, but Mexican police only wanted to look briefly in the back, then sent us forward.  Rain kept pouring.  By the time we got to Guerro Negro, we were pooped and the sun was setting.  Decided to call it for the night.

Rose early, drove straight to Loreto, jumped out of the car with the turkey and stuffing prep and started to create a dinner for 14.  Mid-way through cleaning the turkey and the water pump went off.  I threw a few obscenities .. tired and cranky and how can this be?  Then put on my ‘okay, think of it as camping hat’ and parried on.

Steve got the water pump to work.  The turkey was delicious, stuffing, corn pudding, fresh cranberries, asparagus, salad and rolls.  YUM!

Guests included Jaymi, Don, Ariela & Liana Garvett, Bob Lahodny, Dolores and her daughter Paola, Rigo, Leslie & Aram, & Alexander Ogilvie.

Esperanza

Ezperanza Resort - Cabo San Lucas

Ezperanza Resort - Cabo San Lucas

Coming off the sailboat, all I could think about was a long hot bath – that, and seeing my husband, Steve.  He was driving down to Cabo while I was sailing into port.  We had planned a reunion and a post-anniversary celebration.
I hadn’t been in Cabo in 30+ years .. and had no real desire to return.  When last in the town, it was still a small quaint fishing village.  Now, a huge community of mostly gringos, with huge hotels, a Costco, Home Depot & Walmart, I know longer sensed it’s charm.

In fact, when I got off LunaSea, I made a mad dash through a plethora of bars and drunken party-goers, straight for a taxi. Guess I’m not much of a party woman .. but I already knew that about myself.

I beat Steve and the dogs to the hotel .. and kind of just dropped my jaw!  The Esperanza is first class all the way.  From the polite and attentive staff to the meticulous upkeep of the expansive grounds, The hotel was about pleasing.

Infinity Jacuzzi

Infinity Jacuzzi

Our room had a jacuzzi that sat on the deck and spilled into space .. Candles on an outside patio table, as well as indoors next to an oversized tub .. all fragrant and designed for creature comfort.

Steve had researched – we needed a dog-friendly hotel, and Esperanza was one of the few.  And dog-friendly hardly says it.  The dogs even had their own room-service menu with dinner selections.  The staff delivered bowls and beds.  Such lucky puppies. By the time we left, everyone knew their names and they had more than their share of head rubs.

We took a yoga class, got a massage .. and never left the grounds.  Steve kept asking me if I didn’t want to see Cabo.  And my answer was .. I saw it 30 years ago and it was beautiful.  Why spoil a good memory?

Baja Haha

15th Annual Baja Haha .. San Diego to Cabo San Lucas .. 150 boats .. a great and fun way for families/pirates and just salty hands to get in some sail time and find their way south.

I ‘hitchhiked’ – put my name as potential crew on Latitude 38s website .. and got a nice ride on Luna Sea .. a boat owned by Dave Boyles.  Dave Hohman, Don Johnson, Katie & Matt rounded out the crew.  Luna Sea is a Hardin Force 50 .. Built like a Formasa clipper with 2 masts and a full outfit of sails.

We started out in light winds .. which eventually crashed down to no winds.. Landed a tuna – 3 in fact the first afernoon.  Sushi was abundant .. the only worry : would we have enough wasabi?

After two days of party in Bahia Tortuga, the fleet took off again .. this time with winds!  Too fast to catch fish, but fun fun sailing.  Past cruise ships and tankers in the dark of night .. and down to Santa Maria, for another two days of party, surfing, mountain climbing, beach walking and swimming.

Finally — south to Cabo .. and an end to a wonderful journey and experience.

The Road from Cabo

Shortcut to Loreto

Shortcut to Loreto

Steve decided to take the ‘scenic’ route from Cabo to Loreto .. I just didn’t realize it meant a road like this .. 🙂  All beautiful, actually .. and some new territory around Los Barilles and a very tiny spot called Leonora ..  with a small hotel on the beach that beckoned we weary travelers .. Next trip … Next exploration ..

While I Was Out Sailing …

Sunrise, Bahia de Tortuga

Sunrise, Bahia de Tortuga

While I was out sailing …

The world changed.  America took back her right to be brilliant.  We elected Obama Barack, a man of humble origins as the 44th President of the United States.

While I was sailing …

from San Diego to Cabo San Lucas …  I learned many things, made great new friends and, as always, found my spirit and my soul renewed by the journey.

It was the 15th Annual Baja Haha, a regatta/race that provides the comfort of numbers to the long off-shore distance.  Pirates, scaliwags, families and hardy partiers made up the mix of 150 boats and 546 sailors who left the San Diego shore.

I had ‘hitchhiked’ a ride, via Latitude 38’s crew list, and was brave in my adventure.  Without ever meeting either the boat owner or the rest of hte crew, I jumped onto Dave Boyle’s Hardin Force 50 and took on whatever duties or tasks were handed me.

Crew included Dave Hohman, the engineer who kept the boat running .. and Don Johnson who kept the electrical functioning, and Matt & Katy, affectionately dubbed ‘the kids’ who kept the sails trimmed and the crew smiling with their infectious excitement about their journey to the unknown.

While I’m not the party girl that was likely expected, I did have a great time learning to sail from mizen to kite …  the ins/outs of electrical/water/LPG conservation .. the joys of buying fresh shrimp from the local pangeras .. and of catching tuna and eating sashimi within minutes of the kill.

I was blessed by my slightly ‘wild’ crew .. and I wouldn’t have changed a thing (okay, not quite true.. but we loved each other all the way) ..

While I Was Out Sailing

8 november 2008

while I was out sailing …

the time changed.
The month changed.
My life changed.

While I was sailing …

I learned new skills .. I practiced and refined old ones.
I made new friends.
I built confidence.
I added/fueled a desire for more time on the water.

While I was sailing ..

The sea shifted from cold waters to warm.
The sea life shifted from sea gulls to blue footed boobies and magnificent frigate birds ..

While I was sailing ..
We, the American people, elected an afro-american as the 44th president of the United States ..
We .. the people .. voted to oust 8 years of avarice and greed …
We .. the people of the united states, voted to take back our country .. and rebuild ourselves in our own eyes and that of our global neighbors ..

We .. the people of the united states .. said ENOUGH … and now, we must manifest the maturity and fearlessness to tackle a plethora of challenges .

While I was sailing .. everything in my world shifted … so I am celebrating this moment .. these moments when we are together and happiness permeates the air around us .. we are laughing ..we are sharing stories …we are dancing around anything and everything that hurts.

Hurricane Norbert

It seemed incomprehensible that Santa Ana winds whipped through the canyons and once again turned parched hillsides into conflagrations. I was sitting in the path of a Hurricane Norbert, and rain fell from the sky in buckets.

Category 4 Hurricane Norbert heads towards Baja California

Category 4 Hurricane Norbert heads towards Baja California

Norbert had his origins off the southern coast of Mexico as a loosely formed tropical depression, and slowly grew as it ambled toward the coast of Baja at a leisurely 7 to 10 knots. To the great surprise of those who predict the course and strength of these storms, Norbert went from a Category 1 to a 4 on the Safir-Simpson scale. NOAA called it a very dangerous storm with sustained winds of 135 miles per hour with higher gusts.

Steve and I had driven south on a resupply trip, as we like to call them. Boat parts, shower mats, curtain rods, special foods, DVDs, books, a case of wine, and meds for a friend filled the Hummer as she made her way down Baja 1. When we left, there was a possibility that the storm would veer westward and spin down in the cooler waters of the Pacific.

For Steve, the trip was a quick turn-around. We had scheduled a fundraiser for Cheryl Kinsman at our home Saturday afternoon, and he needed to return. With another quick look at the weather, we kissed goodbye. He told me to be safe, that he loved me (always good to get that last “love” piece in the conversation), and that he’d pick me up Tuesday at LAX.

Dark clouds began to obscure the sky late that afternoon, but Norbert was moving slowly, already downgraded to a Category 3 — winds sustained at 115 mph. We had finished all preparations. I had enough water for at least a month, ample canned and dried foods, flashlights, extra batteries, a satellite phone fully charged, as well as a marine VHF radio and a car filled with gas (thank you, Steve). The front patio was closed off with plywood and all furniture had been moved inside.

Still, Norbert lingered, his long spiral arms spinning above the water, his well-defined eye staring into and out of his center.

Saturday morning, my neighbors Al and Barbara Jordan planned a “Bloody Mary Hurricane Breakfast.” Val (of Laguna history — Iverson’s 76 station at the north end of town — of course no longer there) and her husband, Barry Wilkerson, showed up on their quad. Next-door neighbor Jeanne and I drove the one long block to ensure we wouldn’t get drenched on our return.

The storm was predicted to come ashore at around 1 p.m. It would hit the Pacific coastline first and then have to cross the Sierra Gigantica. While still a Category 2 storm, the factors of coming from the west and moving over the land mass would further reduce Norbert’s punch.

We sat in Bab’s kitchen sharing storm stories and watching the sky grow darker. Al’s boat mechanic was in the garage working on some bearings. Barry pulled out a photo of the 314-pound tuna he had just caught on a fishing trip in Puerto Vallarta. It was a normal morning — except for the unspoken nervousness of what was to come.

It started to pour. Not just drops, but buckets. The courtyard quickly filled with water from the first squall line as we sat down to a breakfast of fried/poached eggs, tortillas, beans and melon.

We ate, cleared the table, and with a short break in the rain, all the guests headed for their respective homes. I had planned to finish a book and — if I had power — watch a movie between running in and out to check on the house and the storm.

Wind whipped Sea of Cortez

Wind whipped Sea of Cortez

The winds picked up around 2 p.m. and blew steady until the next morning. I would guess the steady blow around 50 mph with higher gusts. Certainly not what was forecast, oddly disappointing, while simultaneously being a great relief. We kept power, although the water was cut (common in storms at our end of town), and so I was able to send Steve photographs and e-mail blow-by-blow stories of the storm.

Around 3 a.m. the seas had gone totally wild. Waves built and crashed on the outside sandbar and everywhere the water looked angry. The storm surge mixed with a high tide pushed the water over my patio, depositing ripped cactus arms, sea stones and dead fish tangled with broken branches and bits of trash.

The road into our ’hood was again given back to the arroyo as water from the mountains raced toward the sea.

Earlier, a young Mexican had driven onto the compacted dirt as it began to flash. The road gave way under his car and tumbled it on its side. He opened the door and was washed into the churning river. Friends tried to throw him a line, but he was unable to catch it and was sent into the storm. Tuesday, the police force combed the beach for his body, but as yet, no trace of him has been found.

Storms come and storms go. This one was gentle, by standards — no great damage to the city, but the loss of even one life is a tragedy.

Here, the mountains burn, and occasionally the earth rolls. We are not so almighty powerful as we would like to believe. Storms on the outside tend to echo what happens on the inside. We find our fears, we stare them down, and then we clean up afterward.

Squalls

Squall, Loreto - 16 September 2008
Squall, Loreto – 16 September 2008

Weather!  I love September.  Bright hot days can give way on a whim to dark threatening clouds.  I was  spending a few precious moments in the sun before showering for my flight back to the states, when a squall-set powered in from the south.  Winds whipped the sea into a frothy soup of white dancing caps, as small boats on the out-islands ran for the safety of shore.

I was hoping that enough rain would fall that the airport runway would become a lake (this happens during heavy downpours), and that the plane would be canceled.  Unfortunately, the storm blew through in a hurry, the runway dried up, and it was fly home (sadly) back to the world of traffic, speedy everything, and work.

Lunch with the Governor!

Lunch with the Governor!

Had lunch with the Governor two days ago.  Not Schwarzenegger, although he’s on my list, but Narcisco Agündez Montaño, the Governor of Baja California Sur.

Narciso Agündez MontañoI’d love to report that I was able to press with him about issues of environmental protections and educational reform, but he was heavily involved with local politicos who had their own agenda.  At least I was seated at a table next across from him, as is shown in the attached photograph (he is the man seated on the left in the blue shirt).

Narcisco Agündez had come to Loreto to bless several public works projects, survey the damage from Tropical Storm Julio, and work politics.  He is a member of PRD, as is the current Mayor of Loreto, Yuan Yee.

The lunch was well attended by nearly every city official.  A band played several musical pieces and locally caught dorado with salsa and slaw satsified the tastes of everyone.

As I’ve said before, themost amaizng things keep happening in Baja.