.. of the swell.. a few head high sets drift through with extended waits between. I paddle out at sunrise with Martin so that I can catch a few before I start my drive south to La Paz. The seas are glassy. We have all the waves to ourselves. It is quiet with a few fish jumping around us. On the cliff face, campers move from sleep to lounge chairs, hot coffee in their hands. There is such a sweet community in this small town – both the locals and the visitors come together with what feels like open hearts. Last night, at Yadri’s Tacos, more talk talk talk of surf and more surf. Everyone happy. Everyone smiling. Life feels very very very rich.
“The biggest swell I’ve seen in over 15 years,” is how one resident described the end of July swell that hit San Juanico.
Surfed and surfed and surfed… the waves WAY over my head …
4th point was + 15′, 3rd pt was 12′, 2nd pt was 10-11′ and 1st point (my spot today) was 5-9’… can i just say WOW!~
Took off on steep faces and caught the waves.. rode them for miles (so it seems) .. Then the long walk back to the put in .. because the current is enough to rip out arms and legs ..
I’m going to have a real sweet set of bruises from one late takeoff unexpected over the falls tumble down rolly mess with board smacking body and plan to wear it like badge of honor!
What luck of the draw to land here in this particular moment of wave forms.
As for me, in my re-surfer phase, I carried pride – that I stepped over and through my fears of the big waves, dealt the stinking current and just kept paddling back out.
Have made some great new friends, all of whom tell me it is not alwasy like this – mabye once a year. But I’m wearing a fat smile. I’ve had the time of my life – and I’m thinking with luck, we’ll get something similar at the end of August when I come back with Cathy & Betsy!