There is one truth that I discovered in the past year : I am healthiest when I spend time in the water. Surfing has quickly become the water connection of choice. I think it’s because of the intimacy, the complete identification of self with water that happens with a swell under my feet.
The waves are my Zen – my soul space – my sanity.
I know that I’m not the first to have this experience, nor will I be the last. Thousands of surfers would attest to the sense of timelessness that happens when they paddle into a wave, feel the power generated by winds sometimes thousands of miles away, move and change their lives.
I had surfed when I was a teenager, and then some time spent in Hawaii. But when I returned to the states, I ran into some really agro male surfers who pushed me off waves, cut me off – basically tried to convince me that they owned the water. And I guess they won. I went to college, worked three jobs, and then an inland marriage carried me within visual sight of the water, but a long drive through crowded freeways.
It took a major upheaval in my life – to not coax me – but throw me back into the water to find myself, my voice, and my sanity. Now, there’s not much to keep me out of it. I’ve broken my nose on my own surfboard – and found my way back into the water six days later. I’ve got fin cuts, bruises, and rock slices on my feet. Doesn’t matter. Doesn’t stop me.
A friend, Mikey, said, we get hurt, but we go back. It’s true. It’s what do, because there is magic in the waves … Magic worth the paddle effort, the injuries, long drives or plane flights …
Now, when I run into agro guys, I first try to befriend them – if that doesn’t work, ignore them – and at last jump, just surf alongside of them.
The waves are free …. the waves are free …..