Dog races …

Dog Walk

One of the best things about Loreto dog beach walks : NO LEASHES!  No rules .. Just head out the door and let the dogs run.  The long stretch of beach backs up to estuaries with herons & egrets … osprey and gulls .. The desert stretches to the west, covered in cardon and mesquite, like a carpet of greens and yellows sprinkled across the dusty ground.

Down the beach, around the point .. Cormorants & grebes ply the waters .. Over head, the terns and the blue-footed boobies spy and dive for small fish … The dogs take it all in .. but mostly, they are just dogs … full of joy and play.

Lunch at Picazone

Picazone!

YUM YUM YUM .. and what a setting!  No trip to Loreto is complete without a stop at the tony beachfront restaurant owned by Alejandro and Imelda Igartua.

Relaxing at Picazone

The food is amazing – or did I say that?  My favorite are the tacones – wraps with fish, shrimp, chicken or veggies.

The two came from Cabo 10+ years ago looking for a better place to raise their two sons – Alex Jr and Diego.  They found some property way to the north of town down a long dusty dirt road.  Starting with a tiny 2 burner propane camp stove and a few tables, they have grown the property to include upstairs living quarters, as well as an expanded restaurant.  Alejandra has a full bar, is the most gracious of hosts, and makes each visitor feel completely at home.

Boaters drop passengers, then anchor just offshore.  Schools of fish add snorkeling opportunities, and Alejandro offers windsurfing lessons in his spare time!

A must stopover.  Ask anyone in town for directions ..

Morning Notes

Skies blue, sun rising and the temperatures again warm.  My turns to shorts and t-shirts.  Second cup of coffee.

Buster sits on the beach with Shorty and Diego howling at the pelicans that float just beyond an easy reach.

The birds twitter bouncing tree to tree.  It feels like springtime, but it’s only the 4th day of February.

Dinner last night at 1697, Norma and Kirnin’s wonderful restaurant on the plaza.  We drank red wine with Alexander Ogilvie, our friend and owner of Loreto Realty.  Pizza and pasta.  Warm tables close together against the evening chill.  Dee Wise comes in for dinner.  I haven’t had the chance to spend any time with her.

Why am I never here long enough?

Not Just Another Blonde Dog

Blondie chasing birds!

Blondie chasing birds!

“Not Just a Blonde Dog”

I didn’t set out to find a dog. They all found me.

Two came with the house I bought in Mexico.  Another wandered in a few weeks later.

And then there were the two straggly mutts that had made ‘camp’ on the porch of the empty house across the street.  They were small dogs, about the size of miniature poodles, with long matted hair.  One was dark to light grey,  the other a dirty blonde.

For the first few days, I kept chasing them back to the porch.  The three other dogs were already eating through large bags of kibble and I was still learning to navigate bark-bark instead of meow (I’d been a cat person my entire life).

When the blonde showed up one afternoon with bird feet hanging out of her mouth, I was hooked.  Anyone little dog hungry enough to catch flying food was cunning enough to win me over.  Her grey partner trailed in behind her.

But ugh.  Such dirty tangled messes.  Steve and I got out shampoo, the hose and scissors and whacked away at the knots that bound their legs and shoulders.  Soon, they were oddly trimmed with some gapping fur holes, but bouncier and lighter – and definitely cleaner – for the ordeal.  Steve immediately named them Blondie and Buster, and two good friends entered our lives.

The story’s been told, but again I’ll mention that Steve believed that both dogs were fixed.  When vioila, our neighbor, Jeanne, found Blondie and Buster happily ‘at it’, and soon there-after the Blonde became a kind of football shape, his lessons in anatomy proved to be sorely lacking.  On schedule and in Jeanne’s back yard (we were in the States), Blondie gave birth to six puppies.  Five lived through the night and into full rough and tough, growl and pounce, rip and shred puppydom.

We found homes for all of them.  Three were going to the States and two were staying with families in Mexico.  Which was perfect, until Buster went chasing after a car – and the car won.  Sadly, I buried him in the vacant lot next to some of his predecessors.  Even with partial adoption, beach living can be a hard life.

His death sealed the deal on a puppy for us, and Buster Jr. became the ‘go-dog’ traveling north to the states and back south to Loreto.  He is the light of my life, and a smile maker for all those who meet him.

A few weeks after he’d moved north, Steve became worried about the Blonde.  Even though she still had her big dog friends, was fed regularly, and hung out with Jeanne, she was a little girl dog who was kind of on her own.  Steve decided she should also move to Laguna.

Friend Alexander said that she died and went to wood floors.  Blondie flourished here in ways I had never expected.  At first, she had no idea at all what to do with a toy.  It was only in recent weeks that she finally figured out to grab the other end of her son’s stuffed animal and pull back.  She wasn’t quite ready to chase a ball, but she loved it when Buster did.  She’d jump on his back and ride around while he rolled it from room to room.  Blondie adjusted well to leash walks and even had a personal groomer at Animal Crackers.  In fact, Blondies’ picture graced this newspaper two weeks ago, in an article about the rescue efforts of Gina and her shop.

Her heart, though, was always on the shores of Loreto.  Blondie continued to be an avid hunter – both of land birds and those of the sea.  More than once I had swum after her when she had pinned a small grebe in her sights and could not be dissuaded from pursuing it.  Once, she had swum so far – nearly a mile – that I could hardly see her.  Terrified that she would drown, I tossed off shoes and shorts and swam to grab my precious golden bundle.  When I reached her she kind of looked at me like – Hey?  Where are we anyway? Then settled on top of my chest while I backstroked back to shore.  She would run and jump down the long pebbly beaches, always the first at the door for her daily walk.

Last week, I was in the process of installing wires across the fence to keep the dogs in the yard and prevent them from chasing cars – something I think, that must be in their genes.  The back gates were finished and we were just about to start on the front.  I heard the other dogs bark.  The screen was open and I yelled at Steve to grab Blondie.  She streaked past me a white ball of racing fur.  I screamed “Blondie!” and the driver of the police car patrolling the beachfront looked straight at me.  She was all bark-bark-bark, then thump.  Then no bark.  Her little body lay in a crumpled heap not more than 5’ from where her husband had died.

I bured her next to Buster Sr. under the tree in the vacant lot and the watchful eye of St. Francis’ statue.  She died where she had started, doing what she loved.  Running free.

Blondie was a princess and a Bajanese.

Catharine Cooper is dog mom to Buster – and half-mom to Shorty, Diego and Ruby.  She can be reached at cooper@catharinecooper.com

Arroyo Wandering

Hiking up from the Sea

Hiking inland from the Sea of Cortez

The  arroyos behind the house are amazing.

Nature’s landscape laid out in cactus, paloverde & paloblanco, acacias and various grasses.  Birds

Flowering Desert Shrubs

Flowering Desert Shrubs

flutter between the trees and once away from the roads, the silence is astouding.  The pound of my own thoughts heard clearly without interference.  It makes me wonder why I live in the midst of the city for even a part of my life.

The dogs love to scamper the dusty trails, although we have to stop every 200 feet or so to pull a sticker from one paw or the other.  Blondie is still postiive that she can nab a bird in thin air, and Diego is patiently trying to teach Buster how to corne a rabbit.  Much easier with two dogs, but it takes cunning and patience – something neither of them really has.

The Thing About Dogs …..

Buster Love

Buster Love

The thing about dogs .. is that they turn your life around.  Before you meet them, well, they’re just dogs.  But let them get close … let those dark brown/green eyes lock onto yours with a couple of doggy kisses .. and man, it’s an instant hook for life.

So it has been with Buster – one of Blondie’s 5 puppies – who had not only won me over, but in some sense, taken me over.

In the past week he has hunted for grebe, sheep’s foot, errant stick, dead fish carcuss, bone remnants, and pairs of my socks.  All with unabandoned glee… a big doggy smile on his face.  This dog’s love of life is contagious .. and I am one lucky dog-person to have him in my life.