Never a bad day ..

Daybreak by the SeaThere’s never a bad day by the Sea of Cortez.  There might be challenges, but between the morning sunrise behind Isla Carmen and the drifting pink clouds to the sunsets in the west, the constancy of the water both soothes and heals my entire being.

Pelicans drift mere fractions of an inch from the edge of the water.

The neighborhood osprey swoops through searching for prey.

Arctic and royal terns, down from the icy flows of Alaska join the cormorants, gulls and boobies in the shallow frenzy for sardines and other bait fish.

Off shore, whales, dolphins and rays entertain with dives, rolls and flops.  The sea is alive with fish – grouper, dorado, sailfish, yellowtail, bluefin, bonita, and marlin.

The synergy between the sea and the land is subtle, yet integral. Nutrients washed through summer storms feed the ecosystem, while the sea keeps the coastline a subtle notch cooler.

Mornings begin for me with hot coffee, journaling and then a long walk on the beach or a paddle/swim in the sea.  The constancy .. the ability to trust that it will always be there.

The last morning ….

Martin & Catharine - Dawn at Second Poin

Martin & Catharine - Dawn at Second Poin

.. of the swell.. a few head high sets drift through with extended waits between. I paddle out at sunrise with Martin so that I can catch a few before I start my drive south to La Paz.  The seas are glassy.  We have all the waves to ourselves.  It is quiet with a few fish jumping around us.  On the cliff face, campers move from sleep to lounge chairs, hot coffee in their hands.  There is such a sweet community in this small town – both the locals and the visitors come together with what feels like open hearts.  Last night, at Yadri’s Tacos, more talk talk talk of surf and more surf.  Everyone happy.  Everyone smiling.  Life feels very very very rich.

Epic Waves

“The biggest swell I’ve seen in over 15 years,” is how one resident described the end of July swell that hit San Juanico.

Second Point

Second Point

Surfed and surfed and surfed… the waves WAY over my head …
4th point was + 15′, 3rd pt was 12′, 2nd pt was 10-11′ and 1st point (my spot today) was 5-9’…  can i just say WOW!~
Took off on steep faces and caught the waves.. rode them for miles (so it seems) ..  Then the long walk back to the put in .. because the current is enough to rip out arms and legs ..
I’m going to have a real sweet set of bruises from one late takeoff unexpected over the falls tumble down rolly mess with board smacking body and plan to wear it like badge of honor!

What luck of the draw to land here in this particular moment of wave forms.

Totally Tubed!

Totally Tubed!

As for me, in my re-surfer phase, I carried pride – that I stepped over and through my fears of the big waves, dealt the stinking current and just kept paddling back out.

Have made some great new friends, all of whom tell me it is not alwasy like this – mabye once a year.  But I’m wearing a fat smile.  I’ve had the time of my life – and I’m  thinking with luck, we’ll get something similar at the end of August when I come back with Cathy & Betsy!

Fun, fun & the more of the same!

Fun, fun & the more of the same!

Miles of smiles ….. (and waves)

First and Second Point

First and Second Point

San Juanico, July 22, 2009.

Long drive across the peninsula from Loreto … abut the joy on arrival .. worth every bit the trip.  Waves on the rise as the swell presses up from the south into the mouth of San Juanico Bay.

Already, the points are firing, the surfers have grabbed their boards and made for the waves.  It is grand to see so many breaking points.

First found Cynthia Wagstaff’s house … her husband Cal is in Idaho for the summer, and so she offered up her spare bedroom – which I joyously accepted.  Dropped my bags, and off the the beach we went.  Cynthia had thought that the wind had blown out the surf, but after a few minutes I was like – hey – need to get my board.  Can we go back to the house?  We were tooling around in her bright yellow Volkswagon bug – surf and sand buggy with the dogs – Poncho, Chica and the visitor, Boomer (more on Boomer later).

Back to the beach and a straight paddle out at first – with fun shoulder to head high waves gently broke and rolled across the bay.  Surfed until I couldn’t move my arms, and the we were off to her porch for cocktails, and then a dinner out of tacos.  Yum!  With her other Idahodian friends – there seems to be an army of them in town.

Hot & Humid

Hot & Humid

Hot & Humid

It is HOT and HUMID .. Weather preditions are for 98° with a heat index of 105°   Perspiration drips down my neck and cheeks, but there is nothing better than being here – next to the sea.  The sky sits on the water as if they are two and the same element.  No wind.  No motion.  Grey and blue grey and grey blue.  Monochromatic …

July next to the Sea

Hot hot and humid!  Water is mid-80s.  Air is 90s and up.  Folks hunker down under palapas and in rooms chilled with A/C.  My dogs melt like puddles in burrows dug in the sand.  Not looking for China with their digging – just a cool spot.

Good friends Val & Barry won the ‘other fish’ category of the Fishin’ for the Mission tournament held this last week.  They caught a 58.6 lb yellowfin tuna!  Sashimi for all! (and I heard, a hunk of canning).

Arrived in the new terminal at Loreto.  Quite the change with its lovely arched roof and everything new.  The A/C is greatly appreciated by both staff and travelers.  I hear that when I leave, I still have to go to the old terminal to have my bags xrayed – then back to the new terminal for departure.  Only in Mexico, right?  But that’s part of what I love about this place.  It matches my ‘make it up as you go’ philosophy.

Settling down for a quiet day with books and writing.  La Paz beckons with possible web work … and San Juanico for some time with friend Cynthia and some surf.

The magic of Mexico.

Not Just Another Blonde Dog

Blondie chasing birds!

Blondie chasing birds!

“Not Just a Blonde Dog”

I didn’t set out to find a dog. They all found me.

Two came with the house I bought in Mexico.  Another wandered in a few weeks later.

And then there were the two straggly mutts that had made ‘camp’ on the porch of the empty house across the street.  They were small dogs, about the size of miniature poodles, with long matted hair.  One was dark to light grey,  the other a dirty blonde.

For the first few days, I kept chasing them back to the porch.  The three other dogs were already eating through large bags of kibble and I was still learning to navigate bark-bark instead of meow (I’d been a cat person my entire life).

When the blonde showed up one afternoon with bird feet hanging out of her mouth, I was hooked.  Anyone little dog hungry enough to catch flying food was cunning enough to win me over.  Her grey partner trailed in behind her.

But ugh.  Such dirty tangled messes.  Steve and I got out shampoo, the hose and scissors and whacked away at the knots that bound their legs and shoulders.  Soon, they were oddly trimmed with some gapping fur holes, but bouncier and lighter – and definitely cleaner – for the ordeal.  Steve immediately named them Blondie and Buster, and two good friends entered our lives.

The story’s been told, but again I’ll mention that Steve believed that both dogs were fixed.  When vioila, our neighbor, Jeanne, found Blondie and Buster happily ‘at it’, and soon there-after the Blonde became a kind of football shape, his lessons in anatomy proved to be sorely lacking.  On schedule and in Jeanne’s back yard (we were in the States), Blondie gave birth to six puppies.  Five lived through the night and into full rough and tough, growl and pounce, rip and shred puppydom.

We found homes for all of them.  Three were going to the States and two were staying with families in Mexico.  Which was perfect, until Buster went chasing after a car – and the car won.  Sadly, I buried him in the vacant lot next to some of his predecessors.  Even with partial adoption, beach living can be a hard life.

His death sealed the deal on a puppy for us, and Buster Jr. became the ‘go-dog’ traveling north to the states and back south to Loreto.  He is the light of my life, and a smile maker for all those who meet him.

A few weeks after he’d moved north, Steve became worried about the Blonde.  Even though she still had her big dog friends, was fed regularly, and hung out with Jeanne, she was a little girl dog who was kind of on her own.  Steve decided she should also move to Laguna.

Friend Alexander said that she died and went to wood floors.  Blondie flourished here in ways I had never expected.  At first, she had no idea at all what to do with a toy.  It was only in recent weeks that she finally figured out to grab the other end of her son’s stuffed animal and pull back.  She wasn’t quite ready to chase a ball, but she loved it when Buster did.  She’d jump on his back and ride around while he rolled it from room to room.  Blondie adjusted well to leash walks and even had a personal groomer at Animal Crackers.  In fact, Blondies’ picture graced this newspaper two weeks ago, in an article about the rescue efforts of Gina and her shop.

Her heart, though, was always on the shores of Loreto.  Blondie continued to be an avid hunter – both of land birds and those of the sea.  More than once I had swum after her when she had pinned a small grebe in her sights and could not be dissuaded from pursuing it.  Once, she had swum so far – nearly a mile – that I could hardly see her.  Terrified that she would drown, I tossed off shoes and shorts and swam to grab my precious golden bundle.  When I reached her she kind of looked at me like – Hey?  Where are we anyway? Then settled on top of my chest while I backstroked back to shore.  She would run and jump down the long pebbly beaches, always the first at the door for her daily walk.

Last week, I was in the process of installing wires across the fence to keep the dogs in the yard and prevent them from chasing cars – something I think, that must be in their genes.  The back gates were finished and we were just about to start on the front.  I heard the other dogs bark.  The screen was open and I yelled at Steve to grab Blondie.  She streaked past me a white ball of racing fur.  I screamed “Blondie!” and the driver of the police car patrolling the beachfront looked straight at me.  She was all bark-bark-bark, then thump.  Then no bark.  Her little body lay in a crumpled heap not more than 5’ from where her husband had died.

I bured her next to Buster Sr. under the tree in the vacant lot and the watchful eye of St. Francis’ statue.  She died where she had started, doing what she loved.  Running free.

Blondie was a princess and a Bajanese.

Catharine Cooper is dog mom to Buster – and half-mom to Shorty, Diego and Ruby.  She can be reached at cooper@catharinecooper.com