While I Was Out Sailing

8 november 2008

while I was out sailing …

the time changed.
The month changed.
My life changed.

While I was sailing …

I learned new skills .. I practiced and refined old ones.
I made new friends.
I built confidence.
I added/fueled a desire for more time on the water.

While I was sailing ..

The sea shifted from cold waters to warm.
The sea life shifted from sea gulls to blue footed boobies and magnificent frigate birds ..

While I was sailing ..
We, the American people, elected an afro-american as the 44th president of the United States ..
We .. the people .. voted to oust 8 years of avarice and greed …
We .. the people of the united states, voted to take back our country .. and rebuild ourselves in our own eyes and that of our global neighbors ..

We .. the people of the united states .. said ENOUGH … and now, we must manifest the maturity and fearlessness to tackle a plethora of challenges .

While I was sailing .. everything in my world shifted … so I am celebrating this moment .. these moments when we are together and happiness permeates the air around us .. we are laughing ..we are sharing stories …we are dancing around anything and everything that hurts.

Hurricane Norbert

It seemed incomprehensible that Santa Ana winds whipped through the canyons and once again turned parched hillsides into conflagrations. I was sitting in the path of a Hurricane Norbert, and rain fell from the sky in buckets.

Category 4 Hurricane Norbert heads towards Baja California

Category 4 Hurricane Norbert heads towards Baja California

Norbert had his origins off the southern coast of Mexico as a loosely formed tropical depression, and slowly grew as it ambled toward the coast of Baja at a leisurely 7 to 10 knots. To the great surprise of those who predict the course and strength of these storms, Norbert went from a Category 1 to a 4 on the Safir-Simpson scale. NOAA called it a very dangerous storm with sustained winds of 135 miles per hour with higher gusts.

Steve and I had driven south on a resupply trip, as we like to call them. Boat parts, shower mats, curtain rods, special foods, DVDs, books, a case of wine, and meds for a friend filled the Hummer as she made her way down Baja 1. When we left, there was a possibility that the storm would veer westward and spin down in the cooler waters of the Pacific.

For Steve, the trip was a quick turn-around. We had scheduled a fundraiser for Cheryl Kinsman at our home Saturday afternoon, and he needed to return. With another quick look at the weather, we kissed goodbye. He told me to be safe, that he loved me (always good to get that last “love” piece in the conversation), and that he’d pick me up Tuesday at LAX.

Dark clouds began to obscure the sky late that afternoon, but Norbert was moving slowly, already downgraded to a Category 3 — winds sustained at 115 mph. We had finished all preparations. I had enough water for at least a month, ample canned and dried foods, flashlights, extra batteries, a satellite phone fully charged, as well as a marine VHF radio and a car filled with gas (thank you, Steve). The front patio was closed off with plywood and all furniture had been moved inside.

Still, Norbert lingered, his long spiral arms spinning above the water, his well-defined eye staring into and out of his center.

Saturday morning, my neighbors Al and Barbara Jordan planned a “Bloody Mary Hurricane Breakfast.” Val (of Laguna history — Iverson’s 76 station at the north end of town — of course no longer there) and her husband, Barry Wilkerson, showed up on their quad. Next-door neighbor Jeanne and I drove the one long block to ensure we wouldn’t get drenched on our return.

The storm was predicted to come ashore at around 1 p.m. It would hit the Pacific coastline first and then have to cross the Sierra Gigantica. While still a Category 2 storm, the factors of coming from the west and moving over the land mass would further reduce Norbert’s punch.

We sat in Bab’s kitchen sharing storm stories and watching the sky grow darker. Al’s boat mechanic was in the garage working on some bearings. Barry pulled out a photo of the 314-pound tuna he had just caught on a fishing trip in Puerto Vallarta. It was a normal morning — except for the unspoken nervousness of what was to come.

It started to pour. Not just drops, but buckets. The courtyard quickly filled with water from the first squall line as we sat down to a breakfast of fried/poached eggs, tortillas, beans and melon.

We ate, cleared the table, and with a short break in the rain, all the guests headed for their respective homes. I had planned to finish a book and — if I had power — watch a movie between running in and out to check on the house and the storm.

Wind whipped Sea of Cortez

Wind whipped Sea of Cortez

The winds picked up around 2 p.m. and blew steady until the next morning. I would guess the steady blow around 50 mph with higher gusts. Certainly not what was forecast, oddly disappointing, while simultaneously being a great relief. We kept power, although the water was cut (common in storms at our end of town), and so I was able to send Steve photographs and e-mail blow-by-blow stories of the storm.

Around 3 a.m. the seas had gone totally wild. Waves built and crashed on the outside sandbar and everywhere the water looked angry. The storm surge mixed with a high tide pushed the water over my patio, depositing ripped cactus arms, sea stones and dead fish tangled with broken branches and bits of trash.

The road into our ’hood was again given back to the arroyo as water from the mountains raced toward the sea.

Earlier, a young Mexican had driven onto the compacted dirt as it began to flash. The road gave way under his car and tumbled it on its side. He opened the door and was washed into the churning river. Friends tried to throw him a line, but he was unable to catch it and was sent into the storm. Tuesday, the police force combed the beach for his body, but as yet, no trace of him has been found.

Storms come and storms go. This one was gentle, by standards — no great damage to the city, but the loss of even one life is a tragedy.

Here, the mountains burn, and occasionally the earth rolls. We are not so almighty powerful as we would like to believe. Storms on the outside tend to echo what happens on the inside. We find our fears, we stare them down, and then we clean up afterward.

Squalls

Squall, Loreto - 16 September 2008
Squall, Loreto – 16 September 2008

Weather!  I love September.  Bright hot days can give way on a whim to dark threatening clouds.  I was  spending a few precious moments in the sun before showering for my flight back to the states, when a squall-set powered in from the south.  Winds whipped the sea into a frothy soup of white dancing caps, as small boats on the out-islands ran for the safety of shore.

I was hoping that enough rain would fall that the airport runway would become a lake (this happens during heavy downpours), and that the plane would be canceled.  Unfortunately, the storm blew through in a hurry, the runway dried up, and it was fly home (sadly) back to the world of traffic, speedy everything, and work.

Lunch with the Governor!

Lunch with the Governor!

Had lunch with the Governor two days ago.  Not Schwarzenegger, although he’s on my list, but Narcisco Agündez Montaño, the Governor of Baja California Sur.

Narciso Agündez MontañoI’d love to report that I was able to press with him about issues of environmental protections and educational reform, but he was heavily involved with local politicos who had their own agenda.  At least I was seated at a table next across from him, as is shown in the attached photograph (he is the man seated on the left in the blue shirt).

Narcisco Agündez had come to Loreto to bless several public works projects, survey the damage from Tropical Storm Julio, and work politics.  He is a member of PRD, as is the current Mayor of Loreto, Yuan Yee.

The lunch was well attended by nearly every city official.  A band played several musical pieces and locally caught dorado with salsa and slaw satsified the tastes of everyone.

As I’ve said before, themost amaizng things keep happening in Baja.

Back to the Whales!

Maldo Fisher, co-owner, Campo Cortez

Maldo Fisher, co-owner, Campo Cortez

The great luck of returning to San Ignacio Lagoon twice in one season is first and foremost, a reconnection with old friends – in this case, Maldo Fischer, his sons Cuko and Paco, and guides Adrian and Christina.

Their surprise – and then broad smiles and hugs – upon our arrival made the end of the dusty road a magical place, indeed. Steve and I were assigned “Balena” cabin – which seemed quite appropriate.

During my February early February visit, there were approximately 80 whales in the lagoon. Primarily mothers and their newborn. We were treated to baby antics, nursing moments, and the gift of the mothers as they brought their babies to the boats to be touched and kissed.

Christina, Guide - Campo Cortez

Christina, Guide - Campo Cortez

This trip, 180+ whales had been counted. The behavior had changed with the arrival of males looking for mates and the maturation of the babies. Breaching and spyhopping seemed to be everywhere simultaneously. And we were treated with feeding behaviors – mother and baby – scooping up tasties from the lagoon floor and filtering them through their baleen. The dorsal fins pictured to the right are prominent displayed when the whales are feeding. They scoop with one side of their face, fin raised in the air.

The second evening, Adrian and Christina gave an informative and beautifully presented slide show and narrative. They filled in many gaps on whale behavior, and the show included many new photos from Adrian’s current stay.

After, Maldo gave a wonderful talk and demonstration on the ‘green’ nature of Campo Cortez. He described in detail the solar systems, battery packs and the wind generating turbines. He also covered the water system and the marine toilet operations, also solar powered.

Grey Whale

Grey Whale

In the morning, I was very sad to leave, but pledged to return next year for a longer stay.

Thanks to Maldo for his vision, and for Johnny Friday in joining with him and making the dreams a reality.

Wild Trip to San Juanico and Beyond ..

ROAD TRIP~  with stove, parties, friends & whales.

And I mean – road trip!  Left Laguna mid-morning with overnight in Guerro Negro. Great dinner – as always – at the  Malarrimo Restaurant.  Got up before the sunrise and headed east.  Watched the sun slip over the lip of the Sierra as we dropped down the grade toward Santa Rosalia.

With great luck and no traffic, we pulled into Loreto around 11 AM.  Got the truck unloaded, and on call – Carol’s connection – Richon – arrived to look at the stove and what I need for installation.  No one believed I could get a stove installed in one day.  This IS Mexico. But I was driven and committed.

Val Wilekrson

Val Wilkerson

Barry and Val came by to chat – and stayed 🙂  That’s how it works in Loreto.  Richon brought Juan.  Alexander came over.   Jeanne stopped by and brought her girlfriend, who was fresh from fishing with Chris & the boys.

Steve was deep into rum & cokes until he realized that all the orifices on the stove needed to be converted from natural gas to propane.  Sobered him up (grumpily) fast .. and the job was done.

In the meantime, Jeanne kept saying she wanted to go to sleep and have tomato soup .. but now Steve was grousing about dinner.

Carol & Lee Boyd at Meditarraneo

Carol & Lee Boyd at Meditarraneo

We were supposed to eat at Mediterraneo, Carol & Lee’s excellent restaurant on the Malecón, but now it’s after 8…. and cranky is a good word to throw out. .. So.. with grand and gracious spirit, Jeanne opened her freezer, found ground turkey and a meat loaf was created.

There were potatoes at the house from Boots & his wife Arianna who had been staying while they searched for a place to live.  We mixed russet and sweet for mashed, crafted a salad of cucumbers and tomatoes.. and celebrated a feast.  Alexander had gifted Jeanne a bottle of tequila for her birthday, and this was the time to enjoy.

Wild night and tired, Steve and I crashed down.  Woke early for sunrise and a morning of client work – while we had DSL internet connections.

Catharine Cooper, Dennis Choate, Steve Kawaratani, Bill Clute

Catharine, Dennis, Steve, & Bill

We made an overnight stop in San Juanico where we partied – is there a theme song here? – with old friends and new. We were the guests of Dennis Choate and Donn Stein in their hacienda complex. Donn lent his palapa for the night .. sheets were hastily changed and the party began.

Dennis had good friends, Bill and his daughter, Cathy, staying in his guest house.   Once upon a time, Dennis and Bill had been arch sailing rivals, but now, spinnakers aside, they are best friends.  Dennis builds boats – Transpac and more – at his shop in Long Beach – Dencho Marine.

It might have been the case of wine we brought down for the boys, or maybe it was the fabulous food of the local chefs, but the evening was one of great revelry and memories were created out of deep laughter.

Sailboat racers, surfers, bikers ….. and thank god for the morning after – coffee drinkers.  Bill – you are forever my hero for the espresso!

We all drank too much, ate too much, and laughed harder than we imagined possible.  Dueling iPods provided music and Bill, CC & Steve traded iPhone tricks and info.  I woke up next to my vitamins .. Cathy in her clothes.  Too much fun …………..

Quick check of the surf, not much happeing, and Steve and I jumped back in the Hummer for the drive north along the salt flats to San Ignacio Lagoon.

Whale Kissing & Spy-hopping in Baja

Eye of Baby Grey Whale in San Ignacio Lagoon

Eye of Baby Grey Whale in San Ignacio Lagoon

To be touched by a whale is to be changed for life.

It’s an experience that entered my psyche, bounced around my emotional pool and exited through my intellect. Soft whale skin pressed against my cheek. A throat lifted toward me – “please scratch me.” Mother whales lifted babies toward the boat.

This gift, this play, this sharing.

Can it not be considered an act of love?

How is it possible that these extraordinary leviathans trust us at all? Hunted to near extinction – not once, but twice – their numbers had been reduced to fewer than 100 by human hands hungry for lamp oil.

That they continue to reach out to us, present their young for petting, acknowledge and seek out our presence is a mystery – and some would call, a miracle.

Eloise, CC, Laura at Campo Cortez

Eloise, CC, & Laura at Campo Cortez

We were four – Lynn, Laura, Eloise and me – at Campo Cortez seeking “the friendlies” as the whales in the lagoon have come to be known. To arrive, we’d overcome a faulty car alarm, a dead starter motor, 40 miles of wicked washboard road and one flat tire. Once we arrived at camp, the dusty journey drifted into the past.

Campo Cortez sits on the edge of the lagoon near the boundary of the birthing waters and the playpen in the sanctuary. San Ignacio Lagoon is part of the Vizcaino Desert Biosphere Reserve, a recognized World Heritage site. This desert is extremely dry, consists primarily of volcanic soil and has limited vegetation.

The location of the camps is totally “off the grid.” There is no electricity, no phone lines, or fresh water system.

This has limited the human invasion – no commerce centers or factories mar this retreat. The night sky provides a triple blanket of stars, and the silence is broken only by the whale songs and coyote calls.

On our late afternoon arrival (the tire thing), we were quickly fitted with life jackets by guides Adrianna and Christina, and joined the other “campers” on three separate pongas. The wind was brisk and whipped up small waves and we bounced inside the boat.

Whale spouts surrounded us, and even though we were early in the season, the park personnel had counted 85 whales, all of which seemed to be diving, rolling and breaching in the bay. Our first trip, none advanced to be pet, but they were close enough to almost touch.

That night, we were treated to footage by a film crew from National Geographic, led by documentarian, Luke Inman. He showed clips of whales spy-hopping the boat, spraying the passengers, and being kissed.

Reddish Heron

Reddish Heron

The tide in the morning was ultra low, and the mud flats in front of our cabins were alive with shorebirds foraging for small crustaceans. Oyster catchers mingled with marbled godwits, sandpipers, heron and cattle egrets. Overhead, two osprey searched the receding water for their breakfast.

After breakfast, we all walked to the point and again boarded the boats. Our boat captain, Cuko, had not driven very far when we encountered our first pair.

He idled the engine and we started to splash in the water. The whales seem to be drawn either to the soft sound or the droplets themselves, but the mother whale came right to the boat with her baby.

We could see them under the water before they surfaced and were all “ooh” and “ahh” as they lifted their heads right next to us to be touched.

Each in turn ran their hands across a skin surface that felt unexpectedly as soft as a chamois. Soon, we had a second pair, and we were petting, scratching – and yes, kissing the tops of these huge mammals heads.

San Ignacio Lagoon Ranger w/Spy-Hopper

San Ignacio Lagoon Ranger w/Spy-Hopper

A park boat nearby whose job it is to insure that no whale watching takes place inside the birthing zone, was surprised by the attention of a solitary whale. She would simply not leave his boat alone, and kept spy-hopping (coming up head first) and peering into his boat. Satisfied that he had no passengers, the whale began to play with the boat, pushing it in circles with her nose, and at one point, lifting the bow gently out of the water.

A sweet four-year old was on our boat, and was simply delighted to watch all the excitement. Over dinner, she asked her mother, “Why do people want to touch them?”

There are probably as many answers as there are those lucky enough to experience a whale’s touch. For me, it was exactly that – the touch. Not simply my hands on their bodies, but their reaching out, soliciting the experience. Together, we bridged the human barrier that separates us from most creatures in the wild.

Whale Blow!

Whale Blow!

No longer will the spouts of whale spume offshore be merely white foam. I’ll remember the eye of the whale, how the tiny baby looked up at me from her watery home, and we connected. I’ll be thankful for conservation measures and the way that sometimes, human beings can protect and defend their fellow travelers on planet earth.

Migrating with the Whales to Baja

We’re following the whales, the girls and I, south to San Ignacio Lagoon. After weeks of watching the graceful grays glide past our Southern California coastline, we’ve booked three days at Baja Ecotours outpost in Baja California, on the edge of the lagoon.

Laura McCants spearheaded the idea, and I was quick to spread the invitation. Lynn Brown and Eloise Coopersmith enthusiastically joined the party.

Lynn Brown

Lynn Brown

Laura McCants

Laura McCants

Eloise Coopersmith

Eloise Coopersmith

When the gray whale was first discovered in the North Pacific, it was called the devilfish. Capt. Charles Scammon discovered their major breeding grounds in the lagoons of Baja California. He and his men furiously hunted the whale, and in turn, the grays killed several men and smashed all of his boats. Because of these actions, the grays were feared by the local population.

Luke Inman photographs Grey Whale at Ponga

Luke Inman photographs Grey Whale in San Ignacio Lagoon

It wasn’t until 1977 that the same gray species became responsible for what is now called “the-friendly-whale- phenomenon.” That season, a single gray whale allowed itself to be petted by passengers by all the whale-watching boats it could find.

During successive seasons, the number of petting whales increased, until now. It appears to be learned behavior, and people travel from all parts of the world to be near these gentle giants.

The gray whale has the unique distinction of being the only member of the family Eschrichtiidae, and a mysticete, or a baleen whale. It is a “coastal” whale that migrates from the krill-rich waters of the Artic seas to the birthing grounds in the lagoons of Baja. Their year of travel covers 12,400 miles.

They have streamlined bodies with narrow, tapered heads. The whale received its name from the gray patches and white mottling on its dark skin. Its skin is home to both scattered patches of barnacles and orange whale lice. Newborn calves are dark gray to black, although some may have distinct white markings.

Adult males measure from 45 to 46 feet in length, and females are slightly longer. Both sexes weigh from 30 to 40 tons.

The gray whale has no dorsal (top) fin, but a bump where it would be, and then a series of smaller bumps or “knuckles” that continue along to the tail. Its flippers are paddle-shaped and pointed at the tips; its fluke is about 10-12 feet across, pointed at the tips, and deeply notched in the center.

Gray whales mate in December or January, and a single young is born 13.5 months later — the following January or February. The young travel north with their mothers when they are only 2 months old, and continue nursing until they are 6 to 9 months old. They are generally seen alone or in groups of three.

These whales, which once inhabited both the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, have been close to extinction at least twice in human history, and now live only in the Pacific. Now that they are protected, the gray whale population can continue to recover its numbers.

Eloise, CC & Laura at Campo Cortez

Eloise, CC & Laura at Campo Cortez

“Campo Cortez,” the base camp run by Baja Ecotours, was founded in 1989 by Johnny Friday, an avid diver, explorer and filmographer, and Maldo Fischer, a local fisherman and whale watch guide. Both men share a deep affection and respect for the marine world, and their camp provides eco-conscious travelers with an off-the-beaten path experience. His staff consists of local residents who have a lifetime of knowledge of the area and the lagoon, but are also professional boat captains and naturalists. Their focus is on education and a rewarding experience.

Girls gone wild. Well, not too wild. The camp is solar and wind-powered, and lights are out at 9:30 p.m. That means we’ll have the an increased opportunity for star gazing, hundreds of miles away from annoying city lights. Eloise took a deep breath when she discovered she was “camping,” and friends of Laura’s worried she had set off on a life-threatening experience. Reminds me of the naming of the gray whale — devilfish. How much we don’t know and have yet to learn.

This weekend, we will definitely be in the experiential mode. We are hoping for calm seas and many whale encounters, along with leisurely strolls along empty beaches, and exploratory kayaking in the adjacent mangrove lagoons.

And then there is always the thought that some of the whales we see in the lagoon will be the same that we chance to sight on their journey northward. Maybe we’ll get a tail flap as a confirmation.

Friends, Acquaintances & Chance Encounters

Every trip south I am rewarded with new friends. Seems that Baja just works that way. From casual conversations in the airport to more detailed ‘get-to-know-you’ ones on the actually plane ride, and the chance encounters .. Are there chance encounters?

This trip, a meeting with Johnny Friday, the proprietor of Baja Ecotours, with whom Laura McCants, Lynn Brown, Eloise Coopersmith, and I will journey with in February to San Ignacio Lagoon. We’ll spend three days visiting the migrating grey whales and their young calfs, paddling kayaks in the mangrooves, and getting to know each other better – along with new friends.

Johnny also runs a dive operation out of La Paz – with live-aboard boats. I’ve booked time with him for probably August .. Soccoro Island – whale sharks and manta rays are in my scopes.

The International Conference for Sea Turtle Conservation is held annually in Loreto. At a reception, held at the stunning home of Linda and Tony Kinninger, I was able to spend some time speaking with Wallace J. Nichols, who is with The Ocean Conservancy, and had spent the last year as President of the Turtle Foundation. We spoke a bit about the video script I’ve written .. and the filming of Bill Bahn .. as a conservation educational piece to gather support for Marine Reserve programs in northern California. A popular item with conservationsionists .. a tough sell to commercial fisherman.

Good friend and realtor, Alexander Ogilvie, had been out of town for the party, but he arrived two days later with one of his life long buddies, Gaston. Gaston is a restauranteur in Calgary, Alberta, Canada, and was filled with wonderful stories of life in the north. He also cooks a mean risotto.

Not to be overlooked, the chance meeting of two great guys – Dennis Choate and his friend Donn Stein, who offered up a guest house in San Juanico – if I ever make it to the other side.